Saturday, April 27, 2013

Early Birds

Last week I finally ventured up to the Alley area and looked around for The Ragged Edge. This is worth the fuss. I'd say it's one of the nicest 5.9 cracks around... and there are a lot of good ones. If this wasn't a few pitches and a scramble off the ground it would get climbed by parties every weekend. As it is I don't think it sees the traffic it deserves.

Today was the first real Saturday of spring weather and climbers were piled all over each other for the few dry routes in Welsford. Lucky for Sonia and I we were the first car there early this morning and had our pick of the place. We climbed Comrades in Destiny to start the day. I think is the quickest drying quality route right of the Cave area, and also one of the first decent pitches in Welsford to get sun in the morning. Also climbed Partners in Crime, Pass the Moonshine, Sweet Potato Pie, and Mantle Piece. All great moderate routes.

Shawn trying to stay dry on Waterwalk
Seepage everywhere!
Mallory G. on a rope!
Was really good to see everyone coming out of the woodwork today for the good weather.  Where were all of you a few weeks ago when we were climbing out of the snow!

Tuesday, April 9, 2013

Slabs are Warmer

... at least that's Dom's theory. It's reasonable... he figures jugs make you colder since the surface contact area with your hands is greater. So slabs must be warm right? Pretty much. A few of us spent a cold day there making the best of what has been a darn cold spring so far. (and as I write it's snowing... with more forecast for the weekend... ack). 

Les Dalles is a nice spot to practice up your slab technique in a well protected setting. Give it a try before heading to Whitehorse. We climbed a few nice routes and even did a diagonal traverse from right to left of the whole wall. 

Also climbed a route at Mt. Doug's East Face called Vapour Trails. Nice pitch, but I could do with less ice on it at this time of year! 

Pete asked 'What should I do for the camera'?  Answer: More of this.
Dom on the thin bit of the 9+ route.
Pete colour-coordinates. 
Sonia cruises confidently despite a snoozing belay.
Cool pockets on the slab.
Looks steep for slabs